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Celebrated yet controversial New York City restaurateur Keith McNally has revealed that singer and punk icon Patti Smith once made a young waitress cry during her visits to a Manhattan restaurant in the 1970s.
In an excerpt from his upcoming memoir I Regret Almost Everything: A Memoir, published by New York Magazine’s Grub Street, McNally recounts his time managing the iconic Italian restaurant One Fifth. The eatery, which closed permanently in February, was a well-known gathering spot for New York’s artists and celebrities during its heyday.
McNally, now 73, recalls how Smith, accompanied by her then-boyfriend, photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, and occasionally art curator Sam Wagstaff, was difficult to serve. “Smith, unfortunately, was incredibly rude to the servers,” McNally wrote. “It’s impossible for me to listen to a Patti Smith song today without remembering her reducing a waitress to tears because she forgot to put bread on the table.”
While McNally described Mapplethorpe as respectful toward the staff, Smith’s behavior reportedly left a lasting impression on the restaurant’s employees. The restaurateur’s comments quickly gained attention online, with many social media users sharing their own experiences and reactions to the revelation.
Some expressed disappointment, recalling similar encounters, while others defended the legendary musician, suggesting that her demeanor may have changed over time. “I know people who have spent time with her in the past few years and she was sweet as could be,” one commenter noted.
McNally is no stranger to controversy. In 2022, he famously banned comedian James Corden from his restaurant Balthazar for what he described as “the most abusive behavior” toward his staff in the venue’s 25-year history. Corden later apologized, and the ban was lifted.
Born in England, McNally arrived in New York in 1975 and quickly worked his way up from busboy to general manager of One Fifth within five months. Over the decades, he became one of the city’s most influential restaurateurs, founding or operating beloved establishments like The Odeon, Café Luxembourg, Nell’s, Lucky Strike, Pravda, Pastis, Minetta Tavern, and the popular French brasserie Balthazar.
His memoir, due out on May 6, traces his journey from a struggling immigrant to a celebrated figure in New York’s hospitality scene, offering personal stories of the city’s dining culture, famous patrons, and behind-the-scenes drama.
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